Kilian Impressions: Five, Honestly Reviewed

Kilian Impressions: Five, Honestly Reviewed

Kilian Hennessy comes from the cognac family, and he doesn't let you forget it. The house calls its Liquors line his most personal work, a tribute to that Hennessy heritage.

Booze is hard to do in a fragrance. Push it too sweet and you get cough syrup. Push it too sharp and it smells like someone knocked a drink into your lap. Kilian gets it right more often than most, which is exactly why these five were worth the trouble.

Here's how each one holds up.

Gauley River (Kilian Angels' Share)

The angels' share is what distillers call the spirit that evaporates out of the barrel while it ages. Kilian's version opens on cognac, then oak, cinnamon and tonka, and finishes with praline, vanilla and sandalwood. Benoist Lapouza composed it.

Ours is extremely close to the original. If you know Angels' Share, you'll recognize this on the first spray. Wear it from the first cold snap through New Year's.

Cullasaja (Kilian Apple Brandy)

This is the one you can't buy from Kilian anymore. Apple Brandy launched in late 2013 as an exclusive at Kilian's New York boutique and was later discontinued. The bottle on shelves now is Apple Brandy on the Rocks, a 2021 reworking. The new one is lighter, and plenty of longtime fans never forgave the swap. Ours follows the original.

The notes start with apple, rum, sugar and plum. Oak and smoke come next, then vanilla, labdanum, cedar and ambroxan underneath. Sidonie Lancesseur made it.

The opening is the best few minutes in this whole lineup: fermented apple, closer to hard cider than apple candy. Then it turns quickly, and the rest of the wear is woods. The original behaved the same way. Wearers have said for years that its apple burns off and leaves oak and cedar behind. If you want apple all day, this isn't it. If you want a woody fall fragrance with a great opening, it is.

Seneca Rocks (Kilian Vodka on the Rocks)

Vodka barely smells like anything, which makes it a strange thing to build a perfume around. Kilian didn't try to copy the alcohol. The goal was the feeling of vodka poured over ice. Cardamom, coriander and aldehydes bring the chill. Rhubarb, rose and lily of the valley sit in the middle, with oakmoss, sandalwood and ambroxan underneath. Sidonie Lancesseur again.

Ours captures that "non-smell" smell of vodka: cold, clean, nothing sweet. It's the most refreshing thing here, and the only one of the five that makes sense in July.

Fair warning: if you want to smell boozy, pick something else. That's the point of this one.

Smoke Hole (Kilian Black Phantom)

Kilian Hennessy's starting point here was an Irish coffee with the whisky swapped out for rum. What reads as almond is something the house calls a cyanide accord, which is where the "Memento Mori" in the full name comes from. Caramel, vetiver, sugar cane and creamy sandalwood fill out the rest. Sidonie Lancesseur made this one too.

Ours smells like dark, syrupy coffee with cream. If you think about it, that's an Irish coffee: coffee, liquor, sugar, cream on top. This is the evening one.

Vogel (Kilian Love, Don't Be Shy)

No booze in this one. Love, Don't Be Shy is built on neroli, orange blossom, honeysuckle and rose over a marshmallow sugar accord. Calice Becker composed it. Kilian describes it as first love's innocence, but the founder has also called it a sweet treat reserved for grown-ups. Both are fair.

It's one of the closest matches we make: soft, sweet marshmallow with a playful kind of sexiness.

Where to start

Start with Gauley River (Kilian Angels' Share). It's as close as anything in the catalog, and it's the easiest of the four boozy ones to wear.

Can't decide? Every one comes as a 2 mL sample for $10 or a 5 mL travel spray for $19. Full bottles are $29 for 15 mL and $49 for 30 mL.